A Guide to the Smoking Jacket

Once upon a time, smoking jackets were worn every night after a dinner while enjoying a puff on a quality stogie. While such jackets are rarely used nowadays, we take a look at the history behind these iconic garments, and why they were so popular in the past.

What is a Smoking Jacket?

For those unaware of what a smoking jacket even is, this garment is designed to be worn over your clothes whilst you smoke a tobacco-based item, such as a cigar or pipe. Typically, the jacket falls to the mid-thigh in length, and features a shawl collar and upturned cuffs, and is fastened using either a button or a tie belt. Soft and luxurious fabrics are used to make the jacket, such as velvet, silk and cashmere.

Why Are Smoking Jackets Worn?

A smoking jacket can be worn to protect clothes from the ash falling from the cigars or pipes. As well as protecting the clothes from damage or stains from the ash, the jacket also lessens the smell of smoke lingering on your clothing.

Image Credit: Metropolitan Museum of Art under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication – Smoking Jacket From 1860–70

The History of the Smoking Jacket

During the 16th century, when tobacco was first imported into the United Kingdom, the majority of gentlemen weren’t fortunate enough to possess such vast wardrobes that today’s men enjoy and, therefore, would do whatever they could to protect their most cherished garments.

Cravats and overcoats, as well as tunics, may well have just been magnets for the odour of tobacco, and as a result, men began to wear silk robe de chambres (dressing gowns) as an overgarment when enjoying a smoke at home or in gentlemen’s clubs. With years passing, ideas changed and the dressing gown became reserved for private wear.

Instead, a jacket purely intended for smoking in became popular. This saw the silk robe de chambre evolve into a shorter, mid-thigh length jacket that was designed with the specific intention of absorbing smoke, thus protecting the gentleman’s clothing from falling ash.

Over time, the smoking jacket continued to find its place and fresher versions were fashioned with altered closures to allow gentlemen to sport them in their own residence while dining, which meant they didn’t have to change after they had eaten.

In the 1950s, we began to see the smoking jacket worn outside the confines of the house. Style icons of the time, including Cary Grant, Dean Martin, and Fred Astaire, could all be seen wearing smoking jackets out in public, and not just in private.

One of the most renowned wearers of the smoking jacket is, of course, Hugh Hefner following the release of the first issue of Playboy in December of 1953.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Duke & Digham (@dukedigham)

When Can Smoking Jackets Be Worn?

While technically you could wear a smoking jacket all times of the day and night if you so wished, it is intended to only be worn when enjoying a cigar! The luxurious fabrics and tuxedo-style lapels make it far too fancy for daily wear, yet the resemblance to a robe or dressing gown (particularly with ones featuring belted closure) makes it a little too casual and comfortable for a formal event. However, jackets which fasten with a button or clip can be worn in place of a dinner jacket in some settings.

Who Wore a Smoking Jacket?

Smoking jackets became a staple wardrobe item for the classiest of gentlemen after Edward VII commissioned a special blue silk smoking jacket for himself in 1865. This jacket, which he wore to almost every public event thereafter, caused the garment’s popularity to skyrocket. Popularity remained throughout the 20th century, with iconic figures such as Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Hugh Hefner and Fred Astaire (who is said to have been buried in his smoking jacket) sporting the apparel. While smoking jackets may be seen merely as more of a novelty item than the epitome of male style and class these days, here’s to hoping they one day make a comeback!

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Havana House | Cigars UK (@havanahouseuk)

Would you love to wear a stunning smoking jacket while you enjoy a quality Montecristo cigar and a dram with your smoking buddies? Let us know your thoughts on these jackets, and whether you’d love for them to make a comeback!